We all love to go to the beach and enjoy the good weather, sunbathe, and take a nice swim. However, on windy days, the waves prevent us from taking that refreshing dip. You've probably wondered how those endless waves that never end are formed, but you don't know why or what waves really are.
Do you want to know what ocean waves are and how they form?
What is a wave?
A wave is nothing more than a ripple of water that is on the surface of the sea. They are capable of traveling many kilometers over the sea And, depending on the wind, they move at a greater or lesser speed. When the waves reach the beach, they break and complete their cycle. You can also learn more about how wave height is measured in this article. about wave measurement and how that can influence the prevention of dangerous waves.
Origin
Although it is often thought that waves are caused by the action of the wind, this goes even further. The real producer of a wave is not the wind, but the Sun. It is the Sun that heats the Earth's atmosphere, but it does not make it uniform all over. That is, some sides of the Earth get hotter from the action of the Sun than others. When this happens, the atmospheric pressure keeps changing. Places where the air is warmer, the atmospheric pressure is higher and zones of stability and good weather are created, where anticyclones predominate. On the other hand, when an area is not so hot from the Sun, the atmospheric pressure is lower. This causes the winds to form in a more pressure-less pressure direction.
The wind dynamics of the atmosphere work in a similar way to that of water. The fluid, in this case the wind, tends to go from where there is more pressure to where there is less. The greater the pressure difference between one area and another, the more wind will blow and give rise to storms. It is also interesting to see how the Ocean currents affect wave formation.
When the wind begins to blow and affects the sea surface, the air particles rub against the water particles and small waves begin to form. These are called capillary waves and are nothing more than small waves only a few millimeters long. If the wind blows several kilometers away, the capillary waves grow and give rise to larger waves. It is also interesting to consider how the global warming affects sea level.
Factors involved in its formation
There are several factors that can condition the formation of a wave and its size. Evidently, stronger winds generate higher waves, But the speed and intensity of the wind action and the length of time it remains at a stable speed must also be taken into account. Other factors that influence the formation of different types of waves are the affected area and the depth. As the waves approach the shore, they move more slowly due to the shallower water, while the crest increases in height. The process continues until the raised area moves faster than the underwater portion, at which point the movement destabilizes and the wave breaks.
There are other types of waves that are lower and rounded that are formed by the difference in pressure, temperature and salinity of the adjacent areas. These differences cause the waters to move and give rise to currents that form small waves. This is called sea waves background. It is also interesting to explore the concept of waves to better understand how these formations interact, as you can see in This article about waves.
The most common waves that we see on the beach usually have a height between 0,5 and 2 meters and lengths between 10 and 40 meters, although there are waves that can reach up to 10 and 15 meters in height. It is also important to keep in mind that the Wave size can vary in different areas of the planet.
Another way to produce
There is another natural process that also gives rise to the formation of waves and it is not the wind. It's about earthquakes. Earthquakes are geological processes that, if they occur in the maritime zone, can form gigantic waves called tsunamis.
When an earthquake occurs at the bottom of the sea, the sudden change that occurs on the surface causes waves of hundreds of kilometers to be generated around that area. These waves are moving at incredibly fast speeds through the ocean, reaching 700km / h. This speed can be compared to that of a jet airplane.
When the tidal waves are far from shore, the waves move a few meters high. It is when it approaches the coast when they rise between 10 and 20 meters in height and are authentic mountains of water that impact on the beaches and cause serious damage to the surrounding buildings and all the infrastructures in the area.
Tsunamis have caused numerous disasters throughout history. Therefore, many scientists study the types of waves that form at sea in order to make the coast safer and, in addition, to harness the large amount of energy released by them to generate electricity as a renewable process. Furthermore, the study of earthquakes provides us with valuable information about changes in the elastic properties of the Earth's crust, which is also related to climate change.
Types of waves
There are several types of waves depending on the strength and height they have:
- Free or oscillating waves. These are waves that occur on the surface and are caused by variations in sea level. In these waves, the water doesn't move forward; it simply rotates as it rises and falls, almost at the same point where the wave originated.
- Translation waves. These waves occur close to shore. When they advance they touch the seabed and end up crashing with the coastline forming a lot of foam. When the water returns again the hangover forms.
- Forced waves. These are produced by the violent action of the wind and can be very high.
As a result of global warming, sea levels are rising, and waves will increasingly damage the coast. Therefore, it is essential to understand as much as possible about wave dynamics to make our coasts a safer place. Furthermore, it is important to consider the types of meteors that can influence this phenomenon and how they may relate to the weather. climate change.
